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Manaslu Samagaun in Nepal

When you look at Manaslu up close, you will see that its ridges are slender and glaciers are dense, and it seems that the summit can be reached smoothly from any direction. But if people observe it at a certain distance, they will find that Manaslu Peak is like a sharp sword straight into the sky, standing proudly and extremely precipitous. Manaslu is also known as "Kutang", and "tang" means "platform" in Tibetan, which is used to describe its huge peak. "Manaslu" comes from the Sanskrit word "Manasa", which can be roughly understood as "sacred mountain". The climbing season is from April to May or September to October, and it is extremely difficult to climb, only below the peaks of Chogol, Annapurna, and Nanga Parbat in the 8,000-meter class.


How to get there

At the end of March 1996, an expedition team of 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in Tibet, China, left Lhasa and left the country from Zhangmu Port to Nepal to prepare to climb Manaslu Peak. The climbing route is prone to avalanches and the terrain is complex, full of broken glaciers, especially around 5,900 meters, there are several extremely precipitous rocky slopes, which are the necessary point to reach C2, where 17 Korean climbers were killed in avalanches. The members of Group A quickly passed this dangerous road with rich experience, but due to the heavy snow for two consecutive days and two nights, the team members could only quickly descend to the base camp. The first assault plan failed. The expedition went up to 6,500 meters and rescued Mexican explorer Carrus and another member of the team. After learning about it, a German team member came to the base camp of the Chinese mountaineering team and gave a thumbs up, and said: "This kind of action of the Chinese team members far exceeds the original meaning of the mountaineering expedition." "Manaslu, 8,163 meters above sea level (with 8,156 meters in other measurements), ranks eighth among the world's 14 peaks above 8,000 meters. It belongs to the Himalayan Mountains and is located in Nepal, with latitude and longitude coordinates of 28°33′01"N, 84°33′34"E. Manaslu Peak, known by Nepalis as "Bangje", means "piled up decoration", and is regarded as a sacred mountain. "Manaslu" is derived from the Sanskrit word "Manasa".

At 4 a.m. on May 3, 1996, Group A, Tsering Dorjee, Bienba Tashi, Renna, and Akbu, set out from the assault camp at 6,730 meters and began to assault the summit, without carrying oxygen. When they reached 7500 meters, they encountered a section of ice wall of about 80 degrees, and they erected protective ropes and metal ladders to climb in an alternating protective manner. At 14:50 on the same day, 4 members of Group A successfully reached the top. The team spent 50 minutes filming, photographing, and collecting ice and rock specimens at the summit and retreated to C2 that night. On the same day, Group B team members Wanga, Gabe, Loze, and Dajon also successfully reached the top.


Best season for climbing

April and May and September and October are suitable climbing seasons for Manaslu Peak, pay special attention to anti-altitude sickness, and it is recommended to use oxygen-carrying tablets.


Tips for climbing

In order to avoid getting lost, save physical strength, and improve the speed of travel, you should be in line with the road not go through the forest over the mountain, do not take the path to walk the avenue. If there are no roads, you can choose to walk on longitudinal mountain beams, ridges, mountainsides, river and stream edges, and on terrain with high trees, sparse forests, large voids, and low grass. Do not walk deep ravines and canyons and places where the grass is lush and vine and bamboo are intertwined, just as the so-called walking beams do not go to ditches, walking vertically and without going horizontal. In addition, when marching, the stride length will be increased, three steps and two steps, tens of kilometers down, you can take many steps less, save a lot of physical strength. And when tired, you should relax and walk slowly as a rest, instead of stopping, stand for a minute, and walk slowly to walk tens of meters.


The most basic method of climbing rocks is the "three-point fixation" method, which requires the climber's hands and feet to be able to do well with each other. After fixing both hands and feet or two feet with one hand, move the other point to gradually raise the center of gravity of the body. When using this method, it is necessary to prevent jumping and jerking, avoid moving two points at the same time and must be steady, light, and fast, according to their own situation, choose the most suitable distance and the most stable fulcrum, do not step over large steps and grasp, pedal too far points. When traveling on gravel slopes, pay special attention to the steadiness of the feet and the light lifting of the feet to avoid the rolling of the gravel. When accidentally slipping while traveling, you should immediately face the hillside, open your arms, straighten your legs (tiptoe up), and move your body's center of gravity as much as possible to reduce the sliding speed. In this way, you can try to find climbing and support during the slide. Instead, don't sit facing out, as that will not only slide faster but also roll over steeper slopes.